How Long To Walk A Dog? (How Much Is TOO Much?)

Some dogs are ready to sprint an hour after a walk. Others flop down like they’ve climbed a mountain. It all depends on their exercise needs — knowing that can make a big difference to your dog’s health and happiness.
Breed and Age Matter

Consider your dog’s breed and age. Active breeds won’t be happy stuck inside all day, but your dog might surprise you with their preferences.
Our Staffies, for example, prefer intense bursts of exercise — the zoomies — over long hikes. But they’re persistent and will keep going as long as you are. On long walks, especially in the heat, keep an eye on them.
I once took our dogs on a 1.5-hour uphill hike at 11 a.m. By 12 p.m., I was running low on water, and the dogs were overheating. We had to stop for 20 minutes in the shade while they cooled down.

The younger they are, the more exercise they need. Older dogs need less. But exercise isn’t just about walking — they burn energy running in the garden or chasing their tail.
Be careful with puppies, especially large breeds — their growth plates (the soft parts at the ends of bones) are still developing. Too much exercise can cause damage. Short, frequent walks are better than long hikes until they’re fully grown.
Different Breeds Have Different Needs

A Border Collie thrives on intense exercise, while a Bulldog prefers a short stroll. Smaller dogs tire out faster than larger ones. Mixed breeds are trickier — their exercise needs depend on their genetic mix.
The PDSA infographic below shows typical energy levels for different breeds:

BondVet.com recommends:
- 30 minutes for small dogs
- 1 hour for adult dogs with moderate energy
- 2 hours for high-energy breeds
Don’t forget about mental stimulation. Puzzle games and other brain exercises help keep their mind sharp. Regardless of breed, there are all-weather excercises to keep them moving and amused.
Health Plays a Role in a Dog Walking Routine

Health matters too. Dogs with arthritis or recovering from surgery need gentler routines. Certain breeds are prone to joint problems (like hip dysplasia in large breeds), while brachycephalic breeds (like Bulldogs and Pugs) may struggle with breathing issues, especially in hot weather. Adjust the pace and length of walks accordingly.
If it’s hot, offer your dog a drink or let them cool off in a shallow stream. If you’re far from shelter, dampen a cloth and wipe their nose, ears, and coat. Adele from The Dogs Walk Me suggests packing a “bandana or cloth” in your first aid kit for long trails.
Ask Your Vet
Certain health conditions can affect your dog’s mobility. If you’re unsure about how much exercise your dog needs, ask your vet. They’ll offer a plan based on your dog’s age, breed, and health.
Factors That Affect Walk Length

Weather
Hot pavements can burn paws, and extreme heat drains energy fast. In winter, shorter walks may be better unless your dog loves the snow.
Dog paw pads naturally protect against cold temperatures as low as -35°C, according to Sean McCormack, head vet at Tails.com. If you’re worried about salt or grit, use a paw balm like Musher’s Secret rather than boots.
The best approach in extreme weather? Shorter walks.
Your Schedule
Your lifestyle matters too. A quick walk during a work break may work fine for weekdays. Longer weekend hikes can help balance things out.
Size and Energy Level
Big dogs can handle longer walks. High-energy breeds need more time to burn off steam. If your dog’s more of a couch potato, shorter walks may be enough.
Environment
Busy streets can overwhelm some dogs. Quiet trails are better for anxious pups. Find a place where your dog feels comfortable.
Our Staffies do fine on leash walks, even on busy trails. But they thrive in open fields where they can run and do zoomies. High-energy breeds love open spaces.
Choosing the Right Walking Gear

The right gear can make walks more comfortable and safer for both you and your dog.
Harness vs. Collar
Harnesses are often better than collars, especially for dogs that pull or have respiratory issues. A harness fastens under the belly and across the chest, which prevents pressure on the throat if your dog pulls.
For stronger dogs, a harness with a handle on the back gives you more control. This is helpful when you need to steady your dog — like if a horse passes by or you think they might jump at someone.
Leashes
Different walks call for different leashes:
- Slip leads – Slip leads work well, but they require precise placement behind the ears (not around the neck) to guide your dog effectively.
- Retractable leads – These can be dangerous if the lead extends too far or locks/unlocks suddenly — best avoided in busy areas.
- Long nylon lines – Perfect for open fields and dog parks while training recall.
The Ezydog Vario 6 is my go-to. It’s multifunctional — with a traffic handle for narrow streets, plus 3ft and 6ft lead options, and a hands-free mode.
Summer Gear
Just like runners and cyclists switch to moisture-wicking gear in the summer, dogs benefit from cooling vests. You can also find water bottles that attach to leads, but for longer walks, a larger bottle in a backpack is an even better choice.
Signs of Overexertion and Fatigue

Dogs are pack animals — they’ll follow you as long as you keep going. That can lead to exhaustion, even in cooler weather.
If you notice any of these signs, it’s time to stop and let your dog rest:
- Excessive panting or drooling
- Lagging behind or refusing to walk
- Red gums or a glazed expression
- Lying down or searching for shade
- Lifting or licking paws (indicating discomfort)
If your dog shows any of these signs, slow down, let them rest, or head home at a slower pace.
After a tough walk, give your dog a recovery day. If they seem tired or sore, swap out a walk for gentle play or sniffing games.
Creating a Balanced Routine

A good walking routine suits your schedule and your dog’s needs. Keep walks consistent — dogs love routine.
Mix in mental stimulation. Bring a tug toy or practice training commands along the way. It burns energy and keeps their mind sharp.
I prefer training during walks and saving tug games for the garden. Tug can overstimulate high-energy dogs like Staffies, which can lead to rough behaviour. A game of fetch or a frisbee toss in a secure area is a better option for outdoor play.
If they become overstimulated, take time to calm them down. An overstimulated dog won’t walk nicely.
Watch this video for more on managing overstimulation.
Even in the garden, I’ve had to stop play when the dog missed the rope toy and grabbed my jacket sleeve. With strong breeds like Staffies, you need to be quick to stop play with a sharp “down” command – one of the most important commands to teach your dog.
Watch how your dog reacts. If they’re dragging by the end, shorten the walk. If they’re restless afterward, extend it. Let their behaviour guide you.
And don’t rush it. Let your dog sniff and explore. Walks aren’t just about exercise — they’re an adventure for their senses.
Why Regular Walks Matter

- Walking isn’t just about fitness — it supports your dog’s overall health:
- Physical health – Keeps muscles strong and weight in check.
- Behaviour – Tired dogs are less likely to chew furniture or bark at shadows.
- Mental stimulation – New sights and smells keep your dog’s mind sharp.
- Bonding – Shared walks build trust and strengthen your relationship.
A walk isn’t just a workout — it’s quality time with your best friend. Finding the right balance of exercise and mental stimulation will keep your dog happy and healthy.
How does your dog let you know when they’ve had enough (or when they want more)? Share your experiences below!
This is a great guide on balancing a dog’s walking routine based on breed, age, and health! I love how you highlighted the importance of mental stimulation alongside physical exercise. The tip about checking for signs of overexertion is super helpful—dogs really do push themselves to keep up with us. Have you found any particular puzzle toys or games that work well for keeping high-energy breeds engaged on rest days? Would love to hear your recommendations!
Hi Hanna, they sure do push themselves. Our two are food motivated so on quiet/rest days, hiding treats and telling them ‘find it’ works well. When the weather’s nice, I’ve seen me just taking some of their dry biscuits from the bowl (they’re free-fed) and scattering them in the garden. Even once they’ve found them, they’ll continue for another wee while sniffing around the grass to see if there’s any more they haven’t found. We tried the licki-mats, but they destroyed them so I’m a fan of the simple stuff. DIY search, seek, and eat games lol.