Types of Dog Training Methods (and How They Work)
As I was laying out the dog training tools and equipment I’ve come to rely on, it dawned on me that many of them weren’t planned — they were picked up in response to challenges.
Some of those tools I once thought were debatable, or even unethical, led me down a rabbit hole of different dog training methods. I started wondering: are accredited trainers really using these?
Surprisingly, yes — but not in the way social media makes it seem. What I found was an entire system of training philosophies, ethics, and standards shaping how professionals work with dogs here in the UK.
What I came to realise is that trainers are applying a learning principle that’s been around for decades — one that psychologists first used to explain how animals (and people) learn. It’s called the four quadrants of operant conditioning.
Sounds academic, but it’s really just like how we all learn: we repeat what feels good and avoid what doesn’t. Over time, we figure out which choices bring rewards and which lead to something we’d rather avoid.
Navigate the Types of Dog Training Methods in the UK
The Four Ways Dogs Learn
Remember those four quadrants I mentioned earlier? Here’s what they actually look like:
| Type | What it means | Real-life example (Staffy style) |
|---|---|---|
| Positive Reinforcement | Adding something pleasant to increase a behaviour. | Your Staffy waits calmly before the lead goes on, so you praise and clip the lead — calm behaviour earns the walk. |
| Negative Reinforcement | Removing something unpleasant to increase a behaviour. | A little lead tension releases the instant your Staffy stops pulling, teaching them that loose leads feel best. |
| Positive Punishment | Adding something unpleasant to reduce a behaviour. | You give a firm “ah-ah” when your Staffy jumps up at guests, interrupting the habit before it pays off with attention. |
| Negative Punishment | Taking away something pleasant to reduce a behaviour. | Play stops for a moment if your Staffy grabs the tug toy too roughly — rough play ends the fun. |
The difference between methods — from force-free to balanced — is really just about how much, and when, each principle is used.
From Learning to Practice
It really can be that simple — four ways dogs learn. In theory, anyway.
What matters most is how trainers use those ideas in practice. Some focus purely on rewards, while others take what’s called a balanced approach — meaning they’ll use reward-based methods where possible, but they’re also open to corrections if they think it’s needed.
In most cases, good trainers start with the least aversive option and only step things up when there’s no other way forward. But it’s worth remembering: the faster a trainer says they can “fix” a behaviour, the more likely it involves harsher techniques. That’s not always a bad thing — just something to keep in mind.
Modern Dog Training Methods Explained
Ever notice some dog trainers have more letters after their name than your GP? CPDT-KA, KPA-CTP, IMDT, APDT — the whole alphabet.
Those letters usually point to where they studied or which organisations they belong to, not a university degree. They can hint at what style of training a person leans toward — for example, APDT and PPG members are generally reward-based, while others might mix methods — but they’re not a legal licence or guarantee of skill.
Think of them like club badges: useful for knowing who’s connected to what circle, but not the full story. What matters most is how they treat your dog and whether their approach lines up with what you’re comfortable with.
Now that you know how learning theory shapes training in practice, here’s how those ideas turn into real-world approaches.
The main types of dog training methods summarised…
👉 Builds trust through praise, play, and rewards — no corrections, just redirection and encouragement for good behaviour.
👉 Uses rewards first, but includes fair corrections when needed — best suited to strong breeds handled with experience and care.
👉 Focuses on the gentlest effective method — stepping up only when safety or serious behaviour issues demand it.
👉 A simpler take on LIMA — positive reinforcement first, light correction only when absolutely necessary.
👉 The old-school method — heavy on corrections and pressure, producing fast results but easy to misuse or overdo.
👉 Based on outdated “pack leader” ideas — now discouraged by welfare groups and behaviourists.
👉 Rooted in animal behaviour science — ideal for fear, reactivity, or anxiety cases that need calm, evidence-backed progress.
Force-Free / Reward-Based Training
🐕 Ideal for puppies, sensitive breeds, or dogs that shut down easily.
This is the “good things happen when you get it right” kind of training — all praise, no punishment. It’s the type that most people think of as positive training. It focuses on rewards, praise, and trust-building — teaching your dog that good behaviour brings good things.
Physical corrections aren’t used at all. When mistakes happen, the trainer simply redirects or resets the dog so they can succeed next time.
Balanced Training
⚖️ Works well for strong breeds (like Staffies) when handled with experience and care.
Balanced trainers use both reward and guidance — the “correction” part, when used well, is more about timing and clarity than punishment.
By “correction,” that doesn’t mean yanking the lead or shouting commands.. It’s more like clipping on a shorter lead to walk your dog calmly by your side — a way of saying, “You could be out there sniffing all the good stuff, but right now we need a bit more focus.”
It’s a gentle consequence that makes sense to the dog without causing fear or confusion.
A good balanced trainer still leads with rewards but keeps other options available when safety or reliability demand it.
LIMA (Least Intrusive, Minimally Aversive)
💡 Favoured by modern professional trainers for its ethical, step-by-step approach — always starting with the gentlest option.
LIMA is one of those trainer terms that sounds more complicated than it is. It basically means, always start with the gentlest approach and only step things up if you absolutely have to — like when safety’s on the line and you’re being ignored.
It’s really about intent — choosing what’s kind and effective for the dog in front of you, not just sticking to one method because it’s popular.
For example, when the grandkids came round, the big lad got a bit too wound up — jumping about and ignoring “sit.” Normally he’d get a short crate time-out, but with excited kids in the mix, that could’ve gone sideways fast. So, out to the garden he went — in the rain. Not for long, maybe a minute, just enough for him to realise that being calm inside is the better deal.
When he came back in, doors were shut and his space was limited. I asked for a sit and a wait — about fifteen seconds, though it feels longer when a Staffy’s staring at you, waiting to be released. Then came a calm “good boy,” a treat, and “go lie down.” He did. Lesson learned: if he couldn’t settle, he’d miss out on the fun.
Minimally aversive, in this case, meant giving him a clear choice: he could be in the crate or outside. And if he’d come back in and started up again, he’d have been right back out. Simple cause and effect — calm behaviour gets to stay, chaos doesn’t.
PRAMA (Positive Reinforcement and Minimally Aversive)
🤝 A spin on LIMA — reward first, correction only when needed, focused on calm communication and trust.
PRAMA is basically the same idea as LIMA, just said in plain English — reward the good stuff first, and only add a light correction if it’s really needed. It’s built on the belief that dogs can learn boundaries without fear, using calm, fair consequences that make sense to them.
It’s the middle ground most owners naturally fall into — you want to encourage good behaviour, but you’re not afraid to say “no” when it matters. The key is keeping it steady and calm, so your dog still trusts you even when you’re setting limits.
Aversive / Compulsion-Based Training
⚠️ Best avoided unless working under a qualified behaviourist in a controlled setting.
This is the old-school style — lots of corrections, leash pops, or scare tactics like banging a rolled-up newspaper against your hand to stop unwanted behaviour. You still see bits of it around, especially with strong breeds where owners feel they need to “show who’s boss.”
It can work fast, and that’s why it’s tempting. But it’s also easy to get wrong. When it goes too far, dogs end up more confused or anxious than calm. That’s why it’s best left to behaviourists or trainers who really understand timing and body language — not something most of us should be experimenting with on our own.
As a last-resort example, some trainers might use a remote collar to stop dangerous behaviour — like a dog with high prey drive chasing livestock — but that’d be used for safety, and not something I’d be comfortable with for everyday training.
In fact, LIMA or PRAMA trainers wouldn’t either, because both are about being minimally aversive — and that only comes into play when there’s no other option left.
One of the scariest moments I’ve had was when my lad spotted a few sheep that had slipped out of their field and bolted up the hill after them. I called “come,” then my backup — “wait, wait, wait” — followed by “down,” which is his cue to lie flat.
Thankfully, he did.
When I caught up, he was calm enough to clip the lead back on, but he still got a sharp look and a light flick on the nose — not to hurt, just to make it clear that what he’d done was serious.
What really mattered that day wasn’t the flick, though — it was having those backup commands ready. The triples — “come-come-come” and “wait-wait-wait” — have become our emergency cues. They cut through the excitement and make him stop and think, even when something unexpected pops up. That’s been far more useful than any correction could be.
Dominance / Alpha-Based Training
🚫 Generally discouraged by welfare organisations and modern behaviourists — read why here.
The idea of being your dog’s “pack leader” was huge years ago — thanks mostly to TV trainers — and parts of it still hang around. It’s built on the belief that dogs misbehave because they’re trying to take charge, so you have to show them who’s boss.
In reality, dogs aren’t plotting a takeover. They just repeat what works for them. When you stay calm, consistent, and fair, they follow your lead naturally — no growling contests needed. The best kind of leadership is quiet confidence, not control through fear.
I’ve got two Staffy brothers who prove this point perfectly. There’s an old myth that raising littermates together is a bad idea because they’ll fight for dominance. Even our trainer asked a few times, “Have they started fighting yet?” They never did.
They roughhouse, sure — loud and dramatic enough to make onlookers stare — but it’s all play. When it starts getting too wild, a stern voice and the same training cues they’ve always known is enough to settle them.
I’m not their “pack leader.” I’m just the one who feeds them, walks them, and bathes them — their main carer. That’s where the respect comes from. Dogs naturally listen to the person who shows up every day and means what they say. My partner can struggle to get them to follow a command sometimes, but one word from me, and they listen.
It’s the same lesson I saw in our training class. There was an older dog being retrained by a new owner after a breakup. The main carer had moved out, and the dog had to relearn who to take guidance from. It wasn’t about dominance — just consistency.
And that goes for any home with more than one person. Everyone needs to use the same cues so the dog actually understands what’s being asked. My partner’s always said “heel” with her dogs, but I’ve always used “easy.”
One day she was out with one of ours, saying “heel” and getting nowhere. I told her, “Say easy,” and instantly, he slowed down. Same meaning, different word — and to a dog, that makes all the difference.
Science-Based / Behavioural Training
🧠 Best suited for dogs with fear, aggression, or anxiety issues — trainers who focus on understanding the “why” behind behaviour, not just stopping it.
Science-based training is where the psychology meets the practical. These trainers don’t rely on a single method or ideology — they look at what’s actually happening with your dog, why it’s happening, and how to change it without adding stress or fear.
They’re the ones you turn to when things feel bigger than a simple obedience tweak — like if your dog’s barking turns to panic when left alone, growls when you approach their food bowl, or stiffens around other dogs.
Instead of jumping straight to corrections, they’ll break the behaviour down into triggers, patterns, and emotional drivers, then rebuild calmer reactions through repetition and reward.
A good example of this is desensitisation — gently exposing a dog to something scary, but in a way that teaches calm rather than panic. It’s the type of pre-conditioning I lean on every year in the run-up to Bonfire Night — short sessions with low-volume fireworks playing in the background, gradually increasing the sound over time.
It’s simple and effective. The goal isn’t to overwhelm them — just to pair those noises with a normal, relaxed setting so their brain starts linking “fireworks” with “nothing to worry about.”
You’ll often see this kind of approach used by certified behaviourists or accredited trainers working with fear, reactivity, or separation anxiety. It’s science-led, but in practice it looks like empathy, timing, and consistency — a thoughtful middle ground that helps dogs rebuild confidence one win at a time.
From Training Methods to Trainer Types
Now that you’ve got a feel for the main dog training methods, the next question is — who’s actually using them?
Here’s where things get confusing. Dog trainers aren’t usually taught marketing, so when you’re searching online, their websites can sound vague or all start to blur together. You’ll see things like “science-based approach” or “force-free philosophy” on the About page, but that doesn’t tell you much about what kind of help they actually offer day to day.
That’s because a trainer’s method isn’t the same as their title. The method is how they train — the title tells you what they train. Some focus on obedience and manners, others specialise in behaviour issues, reactivity, or even performance training like agility or scent work.
Knowing the difference helps you find someone who fits both your dog’s needs and your comfort zone as an owner.
Specialist Trainers You’ll Find in the UK
Here’s a summary of who does what.
👉 Helps with everyday manners and obedience — the sit, stay, and come stuff that makes life smoother at home and on walks.
👉 Steps in when things go beyond training — tackling fear, aggression, anxiety, or any behaviour rooted in emotion rather than disobedience.
👉 Specialises in working breeds that need a job — teaching control, recall, and focus through structured retrieving and hunting exercises.
👉 Great for dogs who love a challenge — channelling energy into courses, routines, and precise commands that sharpen focus and bond.
👉 Trains dogs for life-changing roles — from mobility and medical alert work to emotional support and therapy.
👉 Focuses on building trust with rescues or dogs with rough starts — steady progress, patience, and structure to help them feel safe.
👉 Bridges hands-on training with behaviour science — ideal for owners who need practical help backed by behavioural insight.
Dog Trainer / Instructor
🐾 Ideal for: Puppies, rescue dogs, and owners building solid foundations at home.
These are your everyday trainers — the ones who teach basic obedience, leash manners, recall, and social skills. You’ll often find them running group classes or offering one-to-one sessions.
If you’ve never attended one, they’re a brilliant way to build your dog’s confidence and manners around others. We used to go weekly to a walk-in class run by a local trainer, and over time, our dogs learned to settle around all sorts — tiny toy breeds, big Dobermans, and even the odd reactive dog finding its feet.
👉 Curious what those sessions are like? Check out what to expect from dog socialisation classes.
Animal Behaviourist
🧠 Ideal for: Dogs with anxiety, reactivity, or complex behavioural problems needing a science-based approach.
Behaviourists take things further. They deal with complex issues like fear, aggression, separation anxiety, or reactivity — often after a vet has ruled out medical causes. Many are qualified through the Animal Behaviour & Training Council (ABTC) or similar accredited bodies.
💡 Tip: If your dog’s behaviour suddenly changes or worsens, don’t just move from one trainer to the next. Ask your vet for a check-up and advice on training. They can rule out any underlying health issues and, if needed, recommend an accredited behaviourist to help with the next steps.
Gundog Trainer
🦆 Ideal for: High-drive breeds that love to work or chase.
A Gundog Trainer specialises in working breeds that thrive on structured tasks like retrieving, recalling at distance, and keeping focus under pressure.
For clarity, “gundog” isn’t a breed — it’s a group. The Kennel Club recognises 38 breeds in the gundog category, including Retrievers, Spaniels, Setters, and Pointers.
Now, Staffies might not make the best working gundogs — their solid jaws and strong bite aren’t exactly ideal for carrying game — but they benefit massively from the same training principles. Gundog-style work is built around impulse control, focus, and recall: all brilliant skills for energetic breeds that tend to chase first and think later.
In practice, it’s less about teaching your dog to retrieve a pheasant and more about helping them master calm under excitement — a lesson every Staffy owner can appreciate.
Agility & Obedience Trainer
🎯 Ideal for: Energetic dogs who need a mental workout as much as a physical one.
These trainers focus on fun and precision — helping dogs (and owners) build teamwork and confidence through structured exercises or sport. It’s a great way to channel your dog’s energy into something positive while strengthening your bond.
When I first heard about agility training, I pictured Crufts — dogs weaving through poles, jumping hurdles, and crawling through tunnels. But agility can take many forms, even outside the arena.
Take CaniCross, for example. It’s a spin on running with your dog, just with specialised gear: your dog wears a pulling harness attached to a bungee leash, which clips to your waist.
At the speed Staffies run, it’s definitely a confidence-building, bond-boosting sport — and a serious workout for both of you. Think sprints across open fields, wooded trails, heeling on declines, and directional commands like “gee” for right and “haw” for left — just like sledding dogs use. Only this time, you’re the sled being pulled.
🎥 Watch: Duncan from @thatspottydogruns breaks it down clearly while demonstrating how CaniCross commands work in action.
Assistance or Service Dog Trainer
🐾 Ideal for: Owners exploring therapy or assistance work, or those looking to give their dog a meaningful role that builds on natural empathy.
These professionals train dogs for life-changing roles — from therapy and emotional support to mobility aid or scent detection. Their work is usually regulated or overseen by accredited organisations or registered charities.
Now, Staffies aren’t the first breed that comes to mind for service work, but they’ve got the heart for it. Their people-focused nature, loyalty, and knack for tuning into human moods make them brilliant emotional support companions when properly trained and matched to the right person.
🧠 Worth knowing: Not all “therapy dog” or “support dog” programmes are official. Always check that the organisation or trainer is registered and recognised by a legitimate body before signing up.
Rescue & Rehabilitation Trainers
🐾 Ideal for: Newly adopted dogs, anxious rescues, or those needing confidence-building work.
These trainers specialise in helping rehomed or reactive dogs adjust to new environments. They combine positive reinforcement with behaviour modification to rebuild trust, structure, and confidence.
It’s an area close to home for many Staffy owners — the breed is sadly overrepresented in UK shelters, often through no fault of their own. Rescue trainers play a vital role in giving these dogs a genuine second chance: helping them unlearn old fears, form new routines, and rediscover calm before moving on to their forever home.
Most reputable rehoming charities offer post-adoption support. Take the Dogs Trust, for example — they provide free lifetime phone support for adopters and can connect you with accredited trainers or behaviourists for in-person help when needed.
If you’ve rehomed a rescue and run into problems, your adoption centre is always the best first point of contact. They can offer direct guidance or refer you to a qualified rehabilitation specialist who understands what rescue dogs have been through.
Trainer-Turned-Behaviour Consultant
🐾 Ideal for: Dogs who know their commands but struggle to stay calm or consistent in real-world situations.
Many experienced trainers evolve into behaviour consultants — the middle ground between obedience work and emotional wellbeing. They’re the ones who spot when a “training problem” is really a stress or confidence issue underneath.
This kind of trainer is ideal if your dog’s behaviour sits somewhere between habit and anxiety — like barking that’s part excitement, part worry, or reactivity that flares up only in certain settings. They’ll still use training techniques, but with a deeper understanding of why the behaviour happens and how to change it without pressure.
They’re also the ones you’ll often find offering online or one-to-one behaviour consultations — perfect if you want tailored help without jumping straight to a clinical behaviourist or vet referral.
Matching a Trainer to Your Dog’s Needs
Matching a trainer and training method to your dog’s needs can feel a bit like sussing out a breeder’s ethics — like when they try to convince you to take two puppies when your heart’s set on one. The best trainers, like the best breeders, care more about the right fit than the quick sale.
Not every dog needs an expensive one-to-one session right away. Group classes can be just as effective — especially if your dog’s issues are mild or rooted in excitement rather than fear. A good trainer will tell you that, not push you toward the highest-priced option.
We had a reactive dog in one of our classes once. The trainer didn’t turn them away or try to upsell a private consultation. Instead, she said, “Bring him along — stay as long as he’s comfortable, leave when he’s not.”
Before even suggesting one-to-one sessions, she recommended a vet check — just to rule out any underlying medical issues that might be driving the behaviour. Her reasoning was simple: no amount of training works if the root cause is pain or discomfort.
Turns out, it was hormonal. The vet recommended the snip (neutering), and once he’d had the op, he came back noticeably calmer — able to focus, settle, and stay through whole sessions without stress.
Check for Accreditation and Experience
In the UK, anyone can call themselves a “dog trainer,” but accredited professionals have undergone recognised education and assessment. The most trusted organisations include:
- Association of Pet Dog Trainers (APDT UK)
- Institute of Modern Dog Trainers (IMDT)
- Animal Behaviour & Training Council (ABTC)
- Association of Pet Behaviour Counsellors (APBC)
- The Kennel Club Accredited Instructors
Trainers who belong to these bodies must adhere to a code of ethics, use evidence-based methods, and maintain ongoing professional development.
🟢 Tip: You can verify membership through their official websites.
💭 Worth noting: Before committing, don’t be shy about asking how they work — a good trainer will explain their approach without hesitation. If something feels off or your dog seems uncomfortable, trust your gut and walk away. The right trainer will make both of you feel at ease.
Final Thoughts
The world of dog training can feel complicated, but at its heart, it’s simple — it’s about communication, trust, and consistency. The right tools and methods don’t just make life easier; they make life safer and calmer for both you and your dog.
When you’re researching trainers, skip the buzzwords and focus on experience. Look for someone who’s worked with dogs like yours, who’s insured and accredited, and who’s happy to explain how they work and what results you can expect. (Insurance might not sound like a big deal, but it usually means their business has been vetted to meet certain safety and professionalism standards.)
The good ones don’t hide behind jargon — they just want you and your dog to understand each other better.
Whether you’re using positive reinforcement or working with a balanced trainer, the goal is always the same: a happy, confident dog who understands what’s being asked of them.
Remember, even the best tools and techniques mean little without patience and understanding. Take your time, observe how your dog responds, and don’t be afraid to ask for professional help if you hit a wall. A qualified, ethical trainer can make all the difference.
In the end, there’s no one-size-fits-all method — just the approach that helps your dog feel secure, understood, and part of the family.
🐾 Tip: If you’re starting out, start with this guide on Dog Training Tools and Equipment: What You Really Need. It covers the practical gear that supports every training method discussed here.