Dog Training Tools And Equipment: What You Really Need

I remember bringing home two tiny Staffy pups — each the size of a soft toy. Back then, I thought a collar, a lead, and a firm voice were all the dog training tools and equipment I’d ever need. That was a few years ago.

Now, I’ve got a walking bag stuffed with poop bags, treats, and tick removers. In the “dog cupboard” there’s even more: travel water bottles, durable chew toys (the kind aggressive chewers need but can’t be trusted to destroy unsupervised), a slip lead for emergencies, winter coats, and so much more.

Don’t get me wrong — not everything’s essential for everyday use, but each one has earned its place over time.

Some were impulse buys after realising I needed them; others were smart recommendations from fellow owners at dog socialisation classes that quickly turned into weekly lessons training me to train them. I learned which tools actually help the most and which are just handy to have.

Dog training tools by type

From puppyhood, training is mostly about positive reinforcement — rewarding the good rather than punishing the bad. As your dog grows though, their training needs change, and so do the types of dog training methods that work best.

Rescue dogs, for example, might need gentle correctional tools to unlearn unwanted habits. With any dog though, the goal is good manners and responsiveness — not constant corrections.

When you’re ready for off-leash adventures but still building confidence, there’s a whole range of long-distance training tools that make recall safe, not stressful.

And because even the best-trained dogs can get distracted — especially off-lead in the countryside — having a GPS tracker as a backup can give you real peace of mind. I even learned from a reader that Apple AirTags can work surprisingly well for this purpose, proving that not every dog gadget needs to be a specialist one.

Positive reinforcement tools

These are the foundations of modern training — focused on reward, praise, and trust.

• Treat pouch or walking bag (quick access to rewards keeps timing spot-on)
• Clicker or verbal marker (“Yes!” or “Good”)
• Training treats or kibble rewards
• Whistle for recall work
• Long line for safe practice in open spaces

Tip: My Staffies quickly learned that the sound of the dog-walking bag shaking treats was their cue to “activate training mode.” Even long-distance recall was reinforced by raising the bag and shouting the “come” command. Training tools reinforce commands.

Correctional behaviour tools

Used with care, these tools help redirect behaviour rather than punish it.

• Front-clip harness (prevents pulling and redirects motion)
• Head collar (for extra control, especially useful for reactivity training)
• Slip lead (for temporary use during transport or control — never punishment)

My first try with a slip lead led to a near-wrestling match. The lead was around the neck, not behind the ears. That created a fear of the lead that took time to undo. Use tools with care and attention — and always listen to your dog’s body language.

Clicker training tools

Clicker training is all about precision. The click tells your dog exactly what they did right, which helps them learn faster.

• Clicker device or app
• Treat pouch for immediate reward
• Target stick (great for shaping more advanced commands like “touch” or “heel”)

Clicker training shines for stubborn breeds. Despite Staffies having that reputation, we managed with treats alone. If you’re struggling to mark the right behaviour quickly enough, a clicker can bridge the gap.

If you’d like a solid walkthrough, Dawn Miller’s guide to clicker training for dogs is worth a read — it might be the training aid you never knew you needed.

👉 Clicker Training for Dogs – K9 Connoisseur

Distance and recall tools

If you’re confident enough to begin off-leash training, these help maintain safety and consistency.

• Whistle (consistent recall tone)
• Long line or tracking lead
• GPS tag or AirTag for peace of mind

Long nylon lines are the strongest — I see plenty of them in use at a local park where walkers stay on the path while dogs run on the grass. My limit was six feet; anything longer and the dog built too much speed to control. Use a line length you can safely handle.

Calming and focus tools

For dogs that struggle to switch off or focus during training sessions.

• Settle mat or cooling mat for calm behaviour cues
• Snuffle mats for decompression after training
• Lick mats to keep them occupied during downtime

Once you’ve found the right tools for your training style, it’s time to look at the basics — the essential dog training tools and equipment every owner ends up using sooner or later. Some are daily must-haves; others come into play when you least expect it.

Essential Dog Training Tools and Equipment 

1. Collar with ID Tag

In the UK, most dogs must wear an identification tag when out in public — a legal requirement under The Control of Dogs Order 1992, which makes exceptions only for certain working or service dogs. The rule still applies even though microchipping became mandatory in 2016.

It’s not something most people see enforced, especially in rural areas, but it’s still worth taking seriously. The tag isn’t just about following the law — it’s about making sure your dog gets home safely if the unexpected happens.

We’ve seen how quickly it can matter. My partner once came across a loose dog on the road during her drive home from work. Traffic slowed, cars flashed warnings, and within ten minutes the dog was safely reunited with their walker — a professional caught off guard when another dog in their pack let out a sudden yelp. The ID tag made all the difference.

On another occasion, while on holiday, we found a runaway dog that someone was tracking using an Apple AirTag. We couldn’t read it on our Samsung phones, but our multipurpose lead converted into a coupler, so we safely walked the dog until the owner tracked us down. Proof that simple ID tags — and now smart trackers — both can play a part.

Tip: UK law says your dog’s ID tag should show your surname and address, but for privacy, a lot of owners just add a phone number instead (or both). As long as there’s a quick way for someone to reach you, that’s what really helps get a lost dog home fast.

2. Lead

You can’t take a dog on a walk safely without a lead. Depending on the type of training you’re doing, there are different leads for different purposes.

Standard dog leads are best for dogs that are already trained. For those still learning, it’s worth matching the lead to the level of control you need — and to how your dog behaves on walks.

For safety, traffic handles (built-in loops near the clip) are brilliant for extra control in busy areas or around other dogs. I find them especially handy when passing other dog walkers on narrow paths — close enough for control without needing to reel the lead in.

What I like most is how they take the guesswork out of handling. With a standard lead, one hand’s at the loop and the other’s somewhere down the line, trying to judge how close to hold for control. The traffic handle removes that uncertainty — it’s a fixed grab point you can reach for instantly, keeping things steady if your dog lunges or gets overexcited.

Rope leads give good grip, but they can also cause rope burn if your dog does suddenly lunge.

For recall or off-leash preparation, a long line is an excellent training tool. It lets your dog explore while you stay in control — ideal for building confidence before full off-lead walks.

Just keep in mind, long lines aren’t suited for street walks. Use a regular lead until you’re somewhere safe to let your dog roam more freely, then switch to the long line where recall can be practised safely.

There are also training-style leads that combine control and flexibility. A rope slip lead can help teach loose-lead walking, while a figure-of-eight slip lead offers even more control for strong pullers.

👉 Here’s my rundown of the 3 best slip leads for dogs.

Extra use: They’re also handy for quick jobs like leading your dog to the shower after a muddy walk — no chase required. 

Tip: Whatever style you use, make sure it feels comfortable in your hand and strong enough for your dog’s pulling power. I once used a retractable lead with a Staffy and grabbed the cord instinctively — still have the scar to prove why those aren’t suited to powerful breeds.

3. Harness

A well-fitted harness gives you better control and protects your dog’s neck from strain. For strong pullers, a front-clip harness is one of the most useful training tools you can have — it redirects your dog’s movement back toward you, making walks easier and reducing arm strain.

Harnesses come in different styles, each with a purpose:

• No-pull harness – Designed to make walks calmer and more manageable. The front-clip attachment discourages lunging and helps your dog learn to walk at your pace.
• Harness with a handle – Ideal for dogs that need a quick grab in busy areas, or for owners who want a bit more control during training. The handle also helps you lift or guide your dog over obstacles — handy for things like stiles, or car boots.
  • I’ve also found it useful in social situations — like when parents ask if their kids can say hello. The handle gives instant control, making sure the dog can’t lunge or move too suddenly. The traffic handle keeps them close; the harness handle keeps them steady.
• Padded harness – Best for longer walks, senior dogs, or pups that need extra support. The padding spreads pressure evenly and prevents chafing, especially on active dogs with shorter coats like Staffies.

We’ve tried a few styles over the years, and each one has its place depending on your dog’s strength, age, and environment.

The most effective combination we’ve found is the EzyDog Vario 6 lead paired with the Convert Harness using the front-clip attachment upgrade — a setup that gives firm control without the arm strain.

👉 See the full comparison in The 3 Best Dog Harnesses for Strong Pullers

Tip: A front-clip harness paired with a waist lead gives excellent control for powerful breeds. It keeps your hands free and distributes the pull through your core instead of your arms.

4. Toys (Breed-Appropriate)

Dogs need something safe to chew — or they’ll find their own options, like bedding or furniture. We’ve always kept a small basket filled with nylon chew toys, which are among the best durable dog toys for aggressive chewers — and they’ll need them long before they fill out.

When they were younger, we would redirect them to the toy basket whenever they chewed something they shouldn’t. That early training stuck — now, the basket gets used daily, and they go straight to it on their own.

Important: Never let your dog take toys into their crate until you’re confident they’re tough enough not to break apart. Strong breeds can chew through hard materials, and small pieces can be a choking risk — especially for heavy, aggressive chewers.

Just as important is keeping those toys clean — especially the ones that go in the crate. The safest way to do that is by avoiding harsh chemicals. I’ve actually devoted a whole post to it if you want a deeper look: How to Disinfect Dog Toys Safely (& Without Harsh Chemicals).

5. Crate and Accessories

A crate isn’t just for training — it’s your dog’s personal space to rest, reset, and feel secure. When introduced the right way, it becomes a safe spot they choose to relax in, not somewhere they’re sent when they’ve done something wrong.

Crates can help with house training, reduce anxiety, and give structure to quiet-time routines — especially when paired with the right accessories.

Different types of crates suit different needs:

• Dog crates for anxiety – Best for nervous or reactive dogs who need a covered, den-like space to unwind.
• Portable crates – Great for dogs who already have good crate manners and just need a comfortable travel setup.
• Heavy-duty crates – Ideal for strong chewers or escape artists, and a safe option for car journeys.

Once you’ve chosen the right crate, it’s worth thinking about what goes inside. A comfortable crate bed makes a huge difference to how quickly your dog settles:

• Training beds – Perfect for puppies and early crate learners.
• Waterproof beds – Practical for muddy paws and damp weather.
• Orthopaedic beds – The best choice for seniors or dogs with joint pain.

And beyond the crate and bed, there’s the small stuff that makes it inviting — a blanket with familiar scents, a water bowl that clips to the frame, or a favourite toy for comfort.

👉 Best Dog Crates
👉 Best Dog Crate Beds
👉 What to Put in a Dog Crate

Tip: We trained early on that the crate was their space — a calm place for downtime. Our more nervous Staffy still treats it like his bedroom, choosing quiet over company. When kids visit, we teach them the same boundary: if he’s in his crate, let him be. Want to say hello? Grab a treat, stay calm, and let him come to you.

6. Dog Walking Bag

A good dog walking bag keeps your hands free and your essentials close. Quick access to treats helps reinforce positive behaviours in the moment — helping your dog learn faster and keep training cues consistent.

Some owners use treat pouches; I prefer a crossbody dog walking bag. It keeps my hands free for lead control and helps me stay balanced when the dogs pull in different directions — especially useful when I’m using the waist lead setup.

It just needs enough space for the things you actually use on walks — poop bags, a tick remover, your phone, and gloves in colder weather.

Our dogs quickly learned that the bag itself means “training time.” When I reach in and give the “on” command, they walk by my side, waiting in anticipation for the reward. That association turned the bag into one of the most effective positive reinforcement tools we use.

👉 Best Dog Walking Bags

Tip: Keep your training bag light and stocked. The easier it is to grab treats quickly, the faster your timing — and timing is everything in reward-based training.

Those are the things I wouldn’t go without — the everyday gear that makes walks smoother and training second nature.

Beyond those essentials, there are a few tools (some I use, some I don’t) that can be really useful for dialling in training — as long as they’re used the right way.

Optional Training Tools

Head halter 

Useful for dogs that pull or get reactive on walks. It gives gentle control over head movement without putting pressure on the neck. Some dogs need time to get used to it, but when fitted correctly, it can make walks calmer for everyone.

👉 3 Best Head Halters for Dogs That Pull

Dog whistle

I first saw a dog whistle used on a meetup with two other Staffies — the mother and sister of ours. We were out in open fields, the kind of space where you can barely see the dogs once they start running.

The other owner used a low-pitched whistle when the pack started venturing too far and switched back to voice commands and hand signals when they were within sight. It wasn’t for everyday use — it was a long-distance recall cue, just loud enough to carry in wide, open areas.

That experience helped me understand why some owners swear by whistles and others avoid them entirely. Staffies have sensitive hearing, and a sharp or high-pitched sound can be uncomfortable — even distressing. If you ever try one, go for a low-frequency whistle and introduce it cautiously.

For me, it’s an optional tool, not an essential one — useful in the right setting, but unnecessary for most everyday walks.

Settle mat 

A simple tool for teaching your dog how to relax on cue. It’s ideal for cafés, settling dogs when guests visit, or downtime after training sessions. Ours use rugs at home in much the same way — once they learned the combo ‘sit and wait,’ they decided the rug was a comfier spot than the wood floor.

👉 Best Settle Mats for Dogs

Flashlight 

For early morning or evening walks, a flashlight isn’t just for your safety — it helps you spot distractions before your dog does. It’s also useful on noisy, windy nights when nerves are high and shadows make everything suspicious. One of ours hides; the other paces until I grab the torch to prove the garden’s clear.

If you’ve ever wondered how they manage to move around at night without bumping into things — they don’t actually see in the dark. They just see better in low light and rely on their other senses to fill in the gaps. Those sharper senses can backfire though, turning every bump or rustle into a false alarm. A quick scan with the flashlight helps calm things down for us all.

👉 3 Best Flashlights for Walking Dogs at Night (even if it’s just your garden).

Extra-strength lead 

Owners of large or particularly strong dogs might prefer a heavy-duty lead for added control or peace of mind. You may rarely need it, but having one on hand gives extra confidence for high-energy days or new environments.

👉 Best Dog Leads for Large Dogs

Tip: You don’t need everything on this list — just the tools that make life easier for you and your dog — when it really counts.

Final Thoughts

No dog needs a cupboard full of the whole kit and caboodle — just the right dog training tools and equipment that actually help them learn and remember the cues you teach. Start with the essentials — collar, lead, and harness — and build from there.

Every owner ends up building their own toolkit over time, shaped by their dog’s quirks and their own approach to training, care, and control. What matters most isn’t how fancy the gear is, but how you use it.

Introduce each tool gradually, with patience and trust. The best training comes from timing, consistency, and understanding — not from how strong or sophisticated the equipment looks.

Which bit of kit actually made a difference for you — or didn’t survive the early days of training?